Chassis Components

This is the upper motor mount attached to a jig.  It mounts to the engine  block between the heads.  In addition, it serves as the power steering mount.  There are 2 issues with this mount: 1) The left hand head must be removed to take the mount out and 2) It weighs a ton.

Here you see the aluminum replacement we’ve developed.  This part is constructed by welding 3 billet pieces together.  It reduces the weight by over half and can be removed and installed without taking off the heads.

This is the mount installed on the motor along with an aluminum power steering mount plate.  If you look closely you can see the heads of the titanium fasteners used to replace the stock parts.  The fasteners alone save 1/2 pound.

This shot shows the right front upper mount being carved out of billet aluminum.

Here is the mount that bolts to the RF fender and supports the billet mount above.  Shown is the MK2 version and is made from steel tubing.  The MK3 version is on the car now and is fabricated from 6061 aluminum.

In this shot, you can see the stock upper mount with a MK1 lower mount on the right compared to the billet/tubular combination on the left.  A lot of weight difference here.

And finally, the MK2 combination installed on the car.

This is the MK1 lower rear xaxle mount that bolts to the subframe.  Note the large aluminum block used to replace the rubber mount.

And here you see the tubular replacement.  Less than 1/2 the weight.  We’ve built an aluminum version, but it broke during use...we’re investigating the reason.

To improve access to the transaxle shifter assembly as well as pursue the holy grail of lighter weight, here’s our modified LF transaxle mount.  We start with the stock part, and end up with this...several pounds lighter.

This is a sample of what we've done for all the cast motor and transaxle mounts.  This part is made from welded billet aluminum subassemblies.   

Steering and Suspension
Our objectives here are to reduce weight, increase rigidity and provide adjustability.

This is a close-up of the MK1 steering rack/tie rod interface.  Notice the spherical rod ends installed in the rack.  In the current version, we've reversed the positions of the rod end and clevis, attaching the clevis to the rack.  This provides more clearance for movement. 

This is a close-up of the steering rack interface.  At the bottom is a portion of the stock connector.  Normally, it mounts with another vibration isolating rubber part.  We eliminated that and welded a tube and U-joint to it.  The U-joint connects to the lower portion of the Woodward collapsible steering shaft shown in the picture below.

Here’s the U-joint thru the firewall connected to the collapsible steering shaft.  You can also see the pillow block that supports the shaft.

Here’s the Momo steering wheel mounted to a Sweet quick release hub.  We chose the Sweet release because it’s splined, eliminating slop in the steering.

Here’s a shot of the rack mounted to the subframe in the car.

This is the MK2 front lower control arm being held on its fabrication jig.  We make this part out of 4130 chrome-moly tube.  There are National spherical bearings for the subframe mounts (replacing the stock rubber bushings) and one for the connection to the steering knuckle (replacing the stock lower ball joint).  The MK3 version of the LCA features new outer rod end alignment to allow for pure camber adjustment.

A stud mounts to the steering knuckle and provides mounting for the large rod end.  Here you can see the LBJ stud being cross-drilled for safety wire.  The stud is made from 4340 steel and heat treated for strength.

Here’s a shot of the MK2 suspension installed on the car.

Turning to the rear suspension, here you can see the right rear suspension with the remote canister of the shock dangling.

Here we’re drilling out one of the rear Quadralink mounts to convert it to 1/2-20 thread so we can use a rod end

This close-up is of the rear knuckle.  As you can see, we’ve replaced the factory rubber bushings with spherical rod ends.  We’ve done this everywhere.  There are no rubber bushings left in the suspension -- anywhere.

You can see the tubular steel replacements for the stock, stamped steel transverse links.

Here’s a close-up of the rear sway bar arm.  We replaced the stock sway bar with a Schroeder torsion bar.  The bar is carried in a tube welded to the rear subframe.  The arm shown connects the bar to the strut -- via the tubular link at the right of the picture.  Adjustment is made by placing the rod end in a different hole in the arm. 

Here’s a shot of construction of the front and rear camber plates.  Basically a simple job...but time consuming anyway.

A finished front camber plate.   Note the bracket for the strut tower bar.  This is a MK1 part.  We remade the same design in aluminum for lighter weight.  There is a MK3 part being installed for the 2002 season.  After we’ve run it, I’ll provide a picture.

This shows the complete front suspension mounted to a jig we built to simulate the car’s shock towers.  It even has camber plates on it.

Here’s a side view of the simulator with a stock 16" x 6.5" wheel mounted to the hub.  The 12" diameter rotors fill the wheel nicely.

Brakes

This is a close-up of the back of a front rotor without a caliper installed....but with the brake air duct on.  Notice how the air duct directs the air to the inside of the rotor.  Also note the two water mist nozzles mounted in the duct to provide evaporative cooling of the rotor.

We’re using Wilwood Superlite III calipers (differential 4 piston design) and Coleman Machine heavy duty curved vane rotors on the front of the car.  On the rear, Wilwood Superlite calipers (but without the differential piston sizes) and lighter duty Coleman rotors.  These are the MK1 selections.  We’re still using the same calipers but with different rotors.  I'll have pictures later.

Subframes

Yours truly welding up the seams on the front sub-frame.  See the closeup below. 

This is the latest modification to the front subframe.  Here I’ve replaced the front steel member, with a drilled tubular aluminum part.  It saves a lot of weight.  This shot shows the subframe mounted in a jig I built to simulate the car and radiator mounting.

This shows the type of modification we’re making to most of the suspension ...converting to rod ends and spherical bearings.   This is a shot of a rear sub-frame with the first of 4 spacer sets welded in.

Here you can see a completed rear sub-frame prior to powder coating.  Spacers in place, seams welded and some added metal to increase the strength and reduce deflection.

Barry Mumm